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</table></form></td> </tr> </table></td> </tr> <tr> <td><img src="../../../public/91.files/nr_r6_c2.jpg" width="950" height="7" ></td> </tr> </table> <table width="950" border="0" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tr> <td width="591" valign="top"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td><img src="../../../public/91.files/nr_r7_c2.jpg" width="591" height="11" ></td> </tr> <tr> <td height="911" valign="top" background="../../../public/91.files/nr_r9_c2.jpg"><table width="90%" border="0" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tr> <td height="50" align="center" class="z20">辨?zhèn)螖啻b“六堡” 六堡茶年份需善變真?zhèn)?/td> </tr> <tr> <td height="30" align="center">http:// 2011-03-17 17:36 作者：彭慶中來(lái)源：</a>西江都市報(bào)</a></td> </tr> <tr><td align="center"></td></tr> <tr> <td height="30" align="center" valign="middle"><img src="../../../public/91.files/nr2.jpg" width="547" height="10" ></td> </tr> <tr> <td class="z14"><p> </p><p align="center"> <center> <p> </p><p align="center"> <center><img id="87581" title="" style="WIDTH: 470px; HEIGHT: 352px" src="../../../images/attachement/jpg/site2/20110317/001c25dedb8e0eec1a1e12.jpg" align="center" border="0" sourcedescription="編輯提供的本地文件" sourcename="本地文件"></center> </p> </center> <center>年份是六堡茶很重要的一個(gè)指標(biāo)</center> </p> <p>??? 如何判斷六堡茶的年份呢？這是一個(gè)很值得研究的問(wèn)題，其實(shí)說(shuō)難也不難，說(shuō)易卻也不易。與這個(gè)問(wèn)題可以類(lèi)比的是當(dāng)前人們常說(shuō)的古董鑒別，也就是所謂的“鑒寶”。這類(lèi)節(jié)目一直在各類(lèi)媒體風(fēng)行，很受觀眾歡迎。不過(guò)，即使是專(zhuān)家的鑒定結(jié)論，亦會(huì)受到一些民間人士的質(zhì)疑。其實(shí)，這類(lèi)鑒定其實(shí)應(yīng)該包括兩個(gè)方面：一是“斷代”，二是“辨?zhèn)巍薄?zhuān)家們往往依據(jù)材質(zhì)、器型、工藝及某些特征，判斷這些物件屬于何朝何代，因?yàn)樗麄冄芯窟^(guò)歷史，深諳各類(lèi)器物在各個(gè)歷史時(shí)期的加工工藝、器物細(xì)節(jié)、典型特征等等。懂得這些，是學(xué)會(huì)鑒別所必需的，但懂得這個(gè)是遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)不夠的。</p> <p>??? 歷史上，古董的作偽很早就出現(xiàn)了，這些作偽的東西真留到現(xiàn)在，也真的成了文物。而陳年六堡茶的作偽，也有相當(dāng)?shù)臍v史了。據(jù)筆者考證，從消費(fèi)群體逐步認(rèn)可六堡茶有越陳越佳的時(shí)候開(kāi)始，最早在上世紀(jì)四五十年代，香港的茶商就已經(jīng)開(kāi)始將六堡茶做舊做陳了。</p> <p>??? 就古董而言，要真正懂得鑒寶，還要懂得“辨?zhèn)巍?，而要懂得辨?zhèn)?，必須?duì)怎么“作偽”有深入研究，熟悉所有作偽的手法，知道作偽之后會(huì)是怎么樣的，只有如此，才能夠更好辨?zhèn)?，更?zhǔn)確地“鑒寶”。</p> <p>??? 同樣的道理，在如何判斷陳年六堡茶的年份時(shí)，須從這兩個(gè)方面判斷——“斷代”和“辨?zhèn)巍薄?/p> <p>了解一些六堡茶史</p> <p>??? 要懂得鑒識(shí)六堡茶，須了解一下六堡茶生產(chǎn)歷史，以及在這個(gè)歷史中，六堡茶的原料變化、工藝發(fā)展的情況。（抗戰(zhàn)前情況詳見(jiàn)本刊《漫談農(nóng)家六堡茶》之農(nóng)家六堡茶的由來(lái)）</p> <p>??? 八年抗戰(zhàn)以及后來(lái)的幾年，是六堡茶發(fā)展停滯的幾年。所產(chǎn)的六堡茶產(chǎn)量銳減，由幾十家私人茶商進(jìn)行簡(jiǎn)單精制壓籮，由廣州經(jīng)香港再轉(zhuǎn)出口海外。直到1949年之后，六堡茶開(kāi)始逐步恢復(fù)生產(chǎn)和出口。1951年之后，轟轟烈烈的土改使農(nóng)民獲得了土地。當(dāng)時(shí)很多農(nóng)民重新開(kāi)始種植茶樹(shù)，茶樹(shù)的種植面積逐步擴(kuò)大。1951年公私合營(yíng)的梧州土產(chǎn)運(yùn)銷(xiāo)公司成立，亦參與了梧州六堡茶的精制加工。1953年1月，中國(guó)茶業(yè)公司廣州分公司在梧州設(shè)立辦事處，主營(yíng)廣西茶葉，并選址在角嘴路“老虎沖”，設(shè)立小型手工生產(chǎn)的茶葉精制工場(chǎng)，這個(gè)就是后來(lái)的梧州茶廠。據(jù)資料介紹，梧州茶廠在1954年對(duì)篩分、除雜的工藝進(jìn)行了改進(jìn)、1955年對(duì)精制工藝流程進(jìn)行改革。這個(gè)時(shí)期開(kāi)始，梧州茶廠出產(chǎn)的六堡茶特征是條索更為勻整，發(fā)酵比較充分。</p> <p>??? 1954年開(kāi)始，由于取締私營(yíng)茶商采購(gòu)毛茶，廣西大部分六堡茶毛茶由國(guó)家統(tǒng)一制定收購(gòu)等級(jí)和收購(gòu)價(jià)格，由供銷(xiāo)部門(mén)統(tǒng)一收購(gòu)，集中運(yùn)到梧州茶廠精制加工。區(qū)域內(nèi)茶葉統(tǒng)一集中加工，調(diào)供出口。從這個(gè)時(shí)間開(kāi)始，毛茶原料開(kāi)始出現(xiàn)變化。也在這個(gè)時(shí)候，國(guó)營(yíng)橫縣茶廠成立。之后在1966年國(guó)營(yíng)桂林茶廠成立，這幾個(gè)區(qū)域內(nèi)毛茶各自統(tǒng)一集中加工，調(diào)供出口。六堡茶的毛茶原料有了更大變化。</p> <p>??? 在1958年，為了適應(yīng)市場(chǎng)需求，梧州茶廠開(kāi)始工藝革新，試產(chǎn)現(xiàn)代工藝的六堡茶獲得成功，同年進(jìn)行量產(chǎn)，從這個(gè)時(shí)期起，采用現(xiàn)代工藝的六堡茶正式開(kāi)始出現(xiàn)。</p> <p>??? 1976年，蒼梧縣六堡鄉(xiāng)初精合一茶葉加工廠成立。在1976年至1979年5月該廠仍采用傳統(tǒng)雙蒸工藝生產(chǎn)，據(jù)蒼梧縣土產(chǎn)公司茶葉組的資料記載：從1979年5月下旬開(kāi)始，到1982年10月底，蒼梧六堡茶廠考慮到“目前六堡茶生產(chǎn)周期長(zhǎng),滿足不了市場(chǎng)的需要，同時(shí)制耗較大，因此，對(duì)六堡茶生產(chǎn)技術(shù)進(jìn)行改革”，開(kāi)始試產(chǎn)即所謂精制“冷發(fā)酵”工藝，進(jìn)行“初精合一”的六堡茶加工生產(chǎn)。</p> <p>??? 當(dāng)時(shí)，六堡鎮(zhèn)原種六堡茶的種植也幾起幾落，除了農(nóng)戶自己飲用和留存防病治病用的少量之外，基本由供銷(xiāo)社收購(gòu)作精制廠加工。在后期，由于市場(chǎng)、產(chǎn)量及成本的考量，位于六堡鎮(zhèn)中心不遠(yuǎn)的蒼梧六堡茶廠，也拉來(lái)部分外地毛茶加工六堡茶，原料毛茶不再全是原種六堡茶。</p> <p>辨?zhèn)为q為關(guān)鍵</p> <p>??? 熟悉了六堡茶工藝、原料在各個(gè)時(shí)期的使用情況，了解其特征，就給我們提供了一個(gè)判斷老六堡茶年份的準(zhǔn)確而客觀依據(jù)。原料及工藝不同反映其在產(chǎn)品的表現(xiàn)，最為明顯的是干茶、茶味、茶色以及葉底上。 </p> <p>??? 判斷一個(gè)老六堡的年份，首先，你必須喝到過(guò)真正的陳茶。喝到一些有據(jù)可考的老茶在心中作為“標(biāo)桿”。不過(guò)，要喝到真正幾十年的老茶還是要有一定的茶緣。退一步說(shuō)，數(shù)十年的難找，起碼，你應(yīng)該喝過(guò)一些真正有十年八年的老茶，也喝過(guò)一些十多年的陳茶，細(xì)細(xì)體會(huì)一下真正老茶那種陳香，很平和、沉而穩(wěn)的陳和醇，也感受一下五年、十年、十多年之間有時(shí)間跨度的六堡茶變化，了解不同原料工藝的茶其湯色、茶味、茶香和口感上的差異，感受其茶氣、茶韻的變化，這點(diǎn)尤其重要，在下面“辨?zhèn)巍敝衅鸬疥P(guān)鍵的作用。</p> <p>??? 基于這個(gè)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，綜合這些原料工藝因素，來(lái)判斷一個(gè)茶大致的年份，除了靠口感辨別之外，還可以借助于其他外觀辨別來(lái)確認(rèn)是否真正的老茶。但不可以單憑這些外觀加以認(rèn)定。畢竟，現(xiàn)在很多“做陳”的手法就是沖著外部感觀而做的。單純憑這些辨別，特別容易上當(dāng)。</p> <p>??? 一、可以先從外包裝分辨生產(chǎn)的年份，這種做法是最為常見(jiàn)，也最為易于做偽。</p> <p>??? 很多做舊的茶就是通過(guò)做舊外包裝或者仿冒以前的老包裝來(lái)欺騙消費(fèi)者。</p> <p>??? 廠家六堡茶的生產(chǎn)經(jīng)過(guò)這么幾十年，其外包裝也歷經(jīng)了數(shù)十年的發(fā)展變化，一些很有時(shí)代特色的包裝可以作為茶年份的參考。如黑盒六堡茶曾經(jīng)有過(guò)寫(xiě)作“六保茶”的包裝，但茶友們應(yīng)該知道，這個(gè)“舊”的外包裝并不說(shuō)明里面的六堡茶就一定是“舊”的茶。</p> <p>??? 二、可以從干茶入手，看干茶的蓬松度。</p> <p>??? 拿一些不同年份的六堡茶比較一下，十年以上的六堡茶，會(huì)感覺(jué)到隨著時(shí)間的長(zhǎng)短，會(huì)變得松、散，變“輕”，手上感覺(jué)明顯輕于較新的茶。由于長(zhǎng)期存放其自然陳化發(fā)酵，導(dǎo)致老茶會(huì)越陳越“泡”，干茶外觀會(huì)有一層很自然的灰“霜”（注：濕倉(cāng)存放也會(huì)有一層白霜，但濕倉(cāng)做舊的茶會(huì)發(fā)黑，面上霜較“死”，沒(méi)有活性。市面上可看到的做舊普洱“老磚”茶面一層白的痕跡可以借鑒。）干茶顏色會(huì)偏褐紅，甚至棕色，干茶外觀應(yīng)該干凈、無(wú)霉變的痕跡。</p> <p>??? 三、聞干茶的氣味。</p> <p>??? 一般有“哈氣之后聞干茶”的做法，但這種做法很不衛(wèi)生，建議不使用。而且，這樣哈氣后聞到那股“陳味”，很多時(shí)候容易被故意做偽，不太準(zhǔn)確。而且，真正這樣聞干茶都有所謂“陳味”的茶，就越要多加小心。相反，甚至有明顯刺鼻的“陳味”的茶，更應(yīng)該引起警惕，不喝為好。</p> <p>??? 四、看茶湯顏色。</p> <p>??? 一般而言，六堡茶由于原料和工藝原因，某些茶新茶時(shí)候較渾濁，或者新茶一兩年都比較渾。但隨著時(shí)間的推移，會(huì)變得澄亮明凈，越老的湯色越紅越透亮，越體現(xiàn)出六堡茶的“紅”、“濃”特色。如果是后期儲(chǔ)存濕度過(guò)大，或受潮或淋水，或者是做陳做舊，會(huì)使得湯色晦暗、發(fā)啞，甚至渾濁，一般茶友稱(chēng)之為“醬油湯”，碰到這樣的“陳茶”，就要加倍小心了。</p> <p>??? 五、細(xì)品茶湯的陳味。一款真正陳年且非常好的六堡茶熟茶，應(yīng)是沒(méi)有絲毫雜味，沒(méi)有“坑”味，帶陳香，陳香不會(huì)太霸道，但會(huì)很持續(xù)，很沉穩(wěn)，入口有軟化感，口腔、舌面應(yīng)無(wú)明顯澀感，茶味醇厚，于醇厚中體現(xiàn)出一種沉穩(wěn)的“茶氣”?；驎?huì)因六堡茶品種的不同，而感受到不同的陳香之韻，在口腔后部、在咽喉處隱隱回味，茶韻純正，余韻悠長(zhǎng)，這點(diǎn)對(duì)辨?zhèn)斡绕渲匾?/p> <p>??? 而做舊的陳茶，肯定會(huì)有某一方面，或某幾方面出現(xiàn)問(wèn)題，現(xiàn)在的技術(shù)還沒(méi)能夠完美地“做”出辨別不出的陳茶。如有的做舊的陳茶聞之一股“陳味”，但幾道茶湯后，澀味明顯；有的是看干茶很陳，品茶湯也不澀，但茶湯色濁，葉底發(fā)黑、霉?fàn)€、無(wú)彈性，很明顯是做舊做陳的茶。</p> <p>??? 這個(gè)茶湯的“陳味”是很容易被做偽的，而且某些不良茶商更喜歡“指鹿為馬”，將“坑”味說(shuō)成“陳味”，很多接觸陳茶不多的茶友往往會(huì)受到誤導(dǎo)，更以為陳年的六堡茶就是“坑”的。而做舊的陳茶，除了一股“坑”味外，往往就沒(méi)有陳茶哪種醇厚和順和的口感，而且，往往喝了之后，喉頭會(huì)感覺(jué)有點(diǎn)緊，有點(diǎn)不舒服的感覺(jué)，茶友們稱(chēng)之為“鎖喉”，這也是辨別假陳茶的一個(gè)手段。</p> <p>??? 六、看茶底。</p> <p>??? 看茶底很重要，可以辨別這個(gè)茶的工藝和原料。如早期的老茶，出現(xiàn)機(jī)采或機(jī)械切葉的跡象這些跟年份明顯矛盾之處，發(fā)酵工藝不對(duì)的或毛茶原料不對(duì)的，不用說(shuō)，就是年份造假了。 </p> <p>??? 做舊的六堡茶，常用的手法是人為加大濕度加速六堡茶的后發(fā)酵，以達(dá)到“陳”的效果。但這樣的高濕度“陳化”后，無(wú)可避免地茶葉本身的纖維也會(huì)隨之發(fā)生變化，茶底顏色會(huì)變死變黑，沒(méi)有彈性，有些葉底會(huì)發(fā)粘、稀爛如泥。這種“陳茶”就需要格外小心了，一款存儲(chǔ)良好的陳年六堡茶的茶底絕對(duì)不會(huì)是霉?fàn)€發(fā)黑的。</p></td></tr><tr><td align="right">編輯：周文懿 </td></tr> </table> <table width="90%" border="0" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tr> <td height="50"><hr size="1" color="#CCCCCC"> </hr></td> </tr> <tr> <td><table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td align="left" valign="top" bgcolor="#FFFFFF"><table width="100%" border="0" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tr> <td height="35" class="cNbule"><table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <td><hr size="1" color="#CCCCCC" > </hr></td> </tr> <tr> <td> 《梧州快報(bào)》本地新聞早知道梧州第一手機(jī)新聞資訊平臺(tái) </td> </tr> <tr> <td>訂閱方式：移動(dòng)用戶發(fā)送<span id="szxhm4f3od" class="cRed">by</span>到<span id="szxhm4f3od" class="cRed">10658714 </span> 電信用戶發(fā)送<span id="szxhm4f3od" 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